eufyMake E1 Getting Started: Your First Day, Start to First Print

Everything below is the path I actually walked on camera setting up my own machine, plus what I've learned running one since.

Your E1 is on the table, still in the box, and there's a QR code on a piece of paper telling you to download an app. This is the highest-leverage day you'll have with this machine, because almost every frustration owners email me about traces back to something they did or skipped in the first few hours.

Here's the whole day in one rule: spend day one making the machine repeatable, not making something impressive.

Impressive comes later in the week. Day one is unboxing, setup, a deliberately boring first print, and understanding one thing about how this printer finds its origin that will shape everything you do with it afterwards. I filmed my own setup start to finish, and that video is here if you'd rather watch than read.

Call it two hours of wall-clock time, most of which the machine spends working while you don't. Don't try to squeeze it into a lunch break.

What's Actually in the Box

The packaging is genuinely well designed: Velcro straps on the sides, the outer sleeve lifts straight off, and a diagram on top lists everything you should have. Work through it rather than trusting your eyes.

• The printer, with detents on the left and right so you can lift it properly
• An accessory box inside the printer: activated charcoal air filter, AC adapter and power cord, Allen wrench, UV safety glasses, and three ceramic blanks for your first prints
• A separate box with six ink cartridges and the cleaning cartridge
• The quick start guide: one large sheet, all graphics and QR codes, and it's the sequence I'd actually follow
• The sticky mat for the standard bed
• The mini bed, with a calibration mat pre-installed
• The gantry assembly with its linear rails

The front and back doors are held shut with small adhesive stickers on each side. Peel those before you try to open anything, or you'll think something is broken.

Ink: Check the Dates Before You Check Anything Else

The E1 uses six individual cartridges: cyan, magenta, yellow, K (black), W (white) and G (gloss). That's a genuinely good design, because you refill only what you actually run down instead of binning a combined cartridge over one empty channel.

But here's the thing nobody tells you: every cartridge carries its own use-by date, and they are not the same date. When I set my machine up I found cyan already expired, magenta and yellow good for another six weeks, white and black a month beyond that, and gloss somewhere in between, all from the same shipment. Read every box before you open a single one. Note that the date format looks international rather than US (day, then month), because one of mine read "16" in the month position and we don't have sixteen months.

If a cartridge is out of date and it's all you have, you can send it and watch for problems (that's what I did), but you now know what to suspect if a color channel starts misbehaving.

Cartridges load into the back right corner of the top of the machine. Push in, then down, until the status LED goes from flashing red to green. The JetClean cleaning cartridge goes in behind the cover on the right-hand side: pull the cover straight off, remove the three small red caps, then seat the cartridge with the two locating dots at the bottom and push it straight back.

One more thing worth knowing: there is no power button. You plug it in and it boots. That's deliberate: you're not supposed to turn this machine off. A UV printer left dark for days is a UV printer with clogged nozzles.

The Filter and a Fume Extractor Are an Either/Or

The quick start guide's next step is installing the charcoal filter into the cavity behind the front panel. I don't install mine, and here's why.

UV resin has a smell, and on my first machine that smell gave me headaches, persistent enough that I stopped wanting to use the printer. The onboard filter and internal ventilation weren't enough for me. So I designed a fume extractor for the E1 that ducts to a proper extraction system, the same way I handle my lasers. Headaches gone, machine back in use.

The practical point for you: the extractor occupies the same cavity as the filter, so you run one or the other, not both. There's no clearance for both. It's a decision to make on day one rather than after you've already got a headache. If your machine lives in a spare room, an office, or anywhere you spend hours, think about it now.

App, Firmware, Then the Long Wait

Setup runs through the eufyMake app. Scan the QR code on the left side of the printer, pick wireless or wired (a wired option genuinely exists and I'm glad it does), join your network, name the machine, and let the firmware update install.

Then comes device initialization, and this is where the app earns its keep: it tells you up front that this will take 43 to 46 minutes and breaks it down. Status check, ink injection at around 28 minutes, a test print at about 7, and camera calibration at 7 to 10. Start it and walk away.

When the test print comes out, you're checking for uniform color saturation and rectangles that line up with nothing missing. Mine had a couple of missing rectangles in the magenta. Worth noting, not worth stopping for. The larger color patches on the second screen were clean, so I passed it and made a mental note that magenta was my first suspect if print quality wandered later.

Small mercy I discovered by accident: you can print the camera calibration onto the same sheet of paper as the color test. I assumed the overlapping marks would confuse the scan. They didn't.

The Most Important Thing to Understand About This Printer

Here it is, and almost nobody tells new owners this on day one.

The E1 does not have a mechanical origin. It has an optical one. The machine works out its zero point by photographing the print bed (specifically the sticky mat and its green corner marker) and calculating from the image. There are no hard mechanical stops defining where zero is.

Three consequences follow, and they matter enormously:

• How you lay the sticky mat down changes your zero point. Nudge it a millimeter and you've moved your origin a millimeter.
• Your zero point is not the same as mine. Coordinates that work on my machine don't transfer to yours. Neither do anyone else's.
• Placement doesn't automatically repeat. Set a design up against a jig, take the jig off the bed, put it back, and there's no guarantee it lands in the same coordinates.

So take real care laying the sticky mat down. Peel the backing, line it up inside the grooves on the bed, and get it as square as you can. Sight down the gap at the top and bottom edges and make sure it's even rather than skewed. It's repositionable, so lift and redo it if it's off. And don't leave the white protective sheet underneath it: there's a shallow lip around the bed and that extra sheet raises the mat enough to matter.

Once it's down, press it home and leave it alone. That mat is now your origin.

This is exactly the problem I spent months on, and it's why I build what I build. I go deeper on it in what I've learned after a year with the E1.

What Sits Between the Bed and Your Blank

After a few prints you stop seeing the print bed as a surface and start seeing it as a stack. Each layer does a job.

Note the order, because it's the bit people get wrong. I leave the plastic covering on the stock sticky mat and lay a Samcraft FatMat on top of it. The FatMat is a formulated silicone sheet sized for the mini or standard bed. It's tacky enough on its own to stop blanks sliding, it takes all the overspray, and when it's dirty you spray it with 90% isopropyl, let it sit ten or fifteen seconds, and wipe the cured resin off with a microfiber cloth. Peel it, stretch it, clean it, put it back.

The result is that the stock sticky mat, the thing your origin depends on, stays pristine under its own covering instead of being worn out and replaced. That's the part that matters: you're not just saving on tape and mats, you're protecting the surface your alignment is measured from.

Jigs hold a specific product at a known position and height. Which ones to start with depends on what you want to sell. The Jig Alignment System is what gives those jigs a repeatable home on an optically-referenced bed.

Your First Print Should Be Boring

Everyone wants the first print to be the textured, varnished showpiece from the marketing video. Resist. Use one of the ceramic blanks that came in the box, pick a simple photo, and print it flat.

Loading the mini bed: there's a small dip in the front right corner that corresponds to the cut-off corner of the mat, so it only goes in one way. Drop your blank near the center, square to the mat, and close the lid.

In the app, use photo alignment and take a snapshot. The live camera view with your image shown semi-transparent over the real object is the E1 at its best, and it's how you'll place most jobs. Then the settings that matter:

• Flat, not textured. Texture prints can run twenty to thirty minutes on small items; flat gives you answers in five.
• White + CMYK ink mode, so you get a white base under the color on a light substrate.
• Turn the white down from five layers to three. Five is the default and it's more than a ceramic blank needs.
• One CMYK layer is fine to start. Add a second if colors look thin.

Mine finished in 4 minutes 55 seconds on 31 ml of ink and came off the mat fully cured, slightly tacky to the touch, which is normal for UV, and it doesn't transfer.

Then do the thing that actually tells you something: print the same design on a second identical blank without changing anything. If print two doesn't land where print one did, you've just found the problem that will define your first month with this machine, and you've found it on a blank that came free in the box.

The Five Mistakes That Cost New Owners Their First Week

Two Settings to Turn On Right Now

In the app, go to your device, then settings, and enable both of these before you forget:

Remote printing control lets you start a job from your phone or computer without physically touching the machine. If the printer isn't at your elbow, this is the difference between working and walking.

Reprint lets you load, print, unload and run the same job again without rebuilding it. For anyone printing more than one of anything (which is everyone, eventually), this is the setting that turns the E1 into a production tool.

UV Light and Your Eyes

The glasses in the box aren't decorative. With the cover open on the standard bed there's genuine UV leakage at the start of a job, before the bed travels far enough for its front edge to shield the source. Once it's moving, it largely disappears.

Practically: with the mini bed, just run it with the cover closed. With the standard bed and the cover open, especially at a market or event where other people are around, wear the glasses, put up a cover, and keep heads out from under the machine. It isn't a laser, but it's still UV, and you only get the two eyes.

Day Two: Your First Real Batch

Day one made the machine work. Day two proves it repeats. Pick one product, load a full jig of them, print the batch without re-aligning between items, then lay them all out side by side.

Consistent across the batch means your workflow is sound and you can start selling. Drifting across the batch means something in the stack is moving, and now you know exactly where to look. You'll learn more from one batch than from twenty one-off prints.

When you're ready to choose what to make, browse the E1 jigs. Each one is built around a specific product.

FAQ: eufyMake E1 Getting Started

How long does eufyMake E1 setup take?

Budget around two hours of wall-clock time. Unboxing and placement is about twenty minutes, ink and cleaning cartridge about ten, app and firmware about ten, and then device initialization runs 43 to 46 minutes on its own. The app tells you the estimate before it starts. Your first real print is another five.

Where is the power button on the eufyMake E1?

There isn't one. You plug it in and it boots. That's intentional: the machine is designed to stay powered, because leaving a UV printer off for days is one of the most reliable ways to clog its nozzles.

Do eufyMake E1 ink cartridges expire?

Yes, and each cartridge has its own use-by date. In a single shipment I had one cartridge already past date and others good for another two to three months. Check every box before you open any of them. The date format reads as day-month-year rather than US format.

Do I need gloves to install eufyMake E1 ink?

You should wear them. The inks and the JetClean cleaning fluid contain chemicals you don't want on bare skin, and gloves aren't supplied in the box. Keep a box of nitrile gloves by the printer.

Can I use the air filter and a fume extractor at the same time?

No. Both mount into the same cavity behind the front panel, so it's one or the other. Decide before you set the machine up. If it lives anywhere you spend hours, ducted extraction handles the resin smell far better than onboard filtration alone.

Why does my eufyMake E1 print land in a different place each time?

Because the E1 establishes its origin optically, not mechanically. It photographs the print bed and its sticky mat to calculate zero, so how that mat is laid down defines your zero point, and no hard stop guarantees a jig returns to the same coordinates after you lift it off. Squaring the mat carefully is step one; a dedicated alignment system is what makes jig swaps repeat.

What should my first print on the eufyMake E1 be?

One of the ceramic blanks that came in the box, printed flat with a simple photo. Use White + CMYK ink mode, drop the white from the default five layers to three, and skip texture. It runs in about five minutes. Then print the identical design on a second blank to test whether placement repeats.

Do I need to wear UV glasses with the eufyMake E1?

Wear them when running the standard bed with the cover open, especially around other people. There's real UV leakage at the start of a job before the bed's front edge shields the source. With the mini bed, closing the cover solves it.

Do I need a jig to use the eufyMake E1?

Not for a single one-off print. You need one the moment you want the same result twice. A jig fixes a blank's position and height so a design you set up once keeps working across a batch, instead of being placed by eye every time.

What accessories should a new eufyMake E1 owner get first?

In order: something to handle fumes, a reusable mat to protect the stock sticky mat, an alignment system so jigs return to the same position, and then jigs for whatever you plan to make. The first three serve every project you'll ever run; the jigs are specific to your products.

My Bottom Line

Day one is not about making something you'd post. It's about making the machine boring and predictable, because a predictable machine is the one still earning for you in a year. Read the ink dates. Wear the gloves. Square the sticky mat like it matters, because it's your origin. Run the dull test print, then print it twice and fix whatever the second one reveals.

Everything impressive gets easier after that.

→ See the eufyMake E1 on eufyMake's site (affiliate link, supports Samcraft at no cost to you)

From the Samcraft Bench

I design jigs, fixtures and print-bed mats for the E1, make the jigs in Tennessee, and run them on my own machine every week. If you're setting up right now:

• Watch the full E1 setup video, box to first print, unedited,
• Read what I've learned after a year with the E1,
• Weighing the E1 against another machine? The E1 vs xTool O1 Omni head-to-head is here,
• Grab the free E1 print-scale calibration tool, no signup needed,
• Browse everything I make for the E1 in the eufyMake E1 collection,
• Subscribe to Samcraft on YouTube for the hands-on builds.

Stuck on something on your first day? Email support@samcraft.shop and I'll tell you what I'd check first.

Sam

Disclosure: Samcraft is a content partner and affiliate of eufyMake. eufyMake provided my first E1 in 2025 in exchange for video content, and links in this post may be affiliate links that earn Samcraft a commission at no additional cost to you. eufyMake has no editorial input or control over Samcraft content. Samcraft also designs and sells its own independently developed accessories for the E1. All opinions are my own. Setup timings and machine behavior described here are from my own documented setup and ongoing use; specifications are drawn from eufyMake's published documentation. Last reviewed August 2026.